Dunsley

High Ground, Hidden Coast

The green at Dunsley occupies the former site of a medieval chapel. What you find instead is a farm hamlet on high ground above Sandsend, hemmed by arable and grazing fields, with Mulgrave Woods filling in behind it to the north. Tree-lined Dunsley Lane keeps most of the sea out of view, which is a strange thing to be able to say about somewhere this close to the coast. The National Park's own description of the setting calls it "open and wild."

The buildings are sandstone under red clay pantiles or slate, most with white-painted timber and multi-pane sash windows. The historic core is small enough to name in a sentence: the former schoolroom, a house called Sea View, and Victorian Dunsley Hall, with three farmsteads holding down the agricultural character. Look for the Old Schoolroom's decorative bargeboards, Sea View's lattice porch and the leaded lights of the hall. Home Farm's detailing is regarded as unique to this corner of the estate.

A Shipping House and Its Name

Dunsley Hall is the reason to slow down. The present stone house was built in 1900 as a holiday home for the shipping magnate Frederick Haigh Pyman, and it still carries its origins on the inside: a maritime stained-glass window, an inglenook set with green tiles and marble, and oak panelling that family legend attributes to ships' carpenters said to have later worked on the Titanic. It is now a country-house hotel, with a restaurant and wood-panelled Club Bar. The kitchen leans on locally sourced seasonal cooking, with fruit and vegetables from its own garden when the season allows, and the bar pours locally brewed beer. Recent dishes have included a heritage beetroot salad with goats' curd and beetroot meringue, roast cod with pea and mint purée, and belly pork with black pudding. There are four acres of lawns to walk it off.

Pyman thought enough of the place to name a 4,930-ton steamer after it. On 19 August 1915 the Dunsley was stopped and sunk by the German submarine U-24 south of Kinsale, in the same run of events that led to the torpedoing of the liner Arabic.

Downhill to Sandsend

Almost everything else you might want is downhill in Sandsend, a short drop to the coast. The Fish Cottage, twenty yards from the beach, serves Shetland mussels in white wine, cream and garlic, Whitby crab cocktail, herb-crusted hake, and line-caught haddock or North Sea cod and chips, with a dog-friendly terrace. Sandside Café, run since 2022 by the farming couple Paul and Alison Hodgson, stands on the foundations of the old railway viaduct and bakes an award-winning triple-chocolate brownie. East Row Deli handles the cheese, charcuterie and sourdough.

Woods, Castle and Railway

Walkers can take the six-mile circuit that climbs from Sandsend up to Dunsley, then on past the farms into Mulgrave Woods and the old castle. The coastal footpath below follows the bed of the Whitby–Redcar railway, which opened to passengers in 1883 and closed in 1958.

Arriving Without a Village Bus

Dunsley is about four miles north of Whitby, off the A171, with Whitby the nearest station; the X4/X4A buses serve Sandsend below, so check the last stretch on foot or by taxi. Sandside Café sells dog-safe "Pupcakes" too.