The Dudley Arms is a 17th-century stone coaching inn with original beams, vaulted ceilings and two bars, and it has been in the same family since Craig and Betty Staples bought it in 1969. The Staples family still runs it, and these days it is the only pub in Ingleby Greenhow, which puts a fair amount of weight on the kitchen. Premium British beef is butchered in-house, which shows in a menu that runs from steak pie and fillet Diane through porterhouse, rump, ribeye and club steaks.
Beyond the beef there is the pub's signature crispy flowering onion, Gressingham duck breast in a maple-and-orange sauce, Whitby scampi, Scottish west-coast moules marinière and, to finish, sticky toffee pudding. One visitor, Andrew Horsman, singled out a pint of Wensleydale Brewery's Gamekeeper bitter. The pub keeps cask ale with one beer that changes.
Attached to the inn, Café 1756 does a full Dudley breakfast, eggs Benedict, a fresh crab sandwich and moules frites, with dining pods in the outdoor area.
St Andrew's church is Grade I listed and built from the 12th and 13th centuries. The south side of the nave was rebuilt in 1741 in a distinctive herringbone-tooled sandstone. Inside are a late-12th-century arcade with columns that alternate round and octagonal, an unfinished tub font of the same period, and two recumbent effigies: a priest, Willimus Wrelton, who held the living around 1300, and a knight thought to be 15th-century.
The Domesday surveyors folded Ingleby into a combined entry with eight other places, and the figure they left for the village alone is three households. Uhtred was lord here in 1086.
Walking is a major reason to base yourself here. A nine-mile circuit begins beside St Andrew's, allows about four and a half hours, and climbs the old Ingleby Incline to the trackbed of the Rosedale railway before joining the Cleveland Way across open moor. The escarpment climb is steep and there are no toilets once you leave the village; OS Explorer OL26 covers the ground. A separate 7.5-mile circular is also linked by the parish council.
That incline was built to link the moor-top ironstone railway with Battersby below. Loaded wagons ran down the roughly one-in-five slope on a steel rope, hauling the empty ones back up; workers were forbidden to ride them, accidents happened all the same, and the line closed in 1929. Its straight scar is still legible on the hillside above the houses.
The other herringbone-tooled building is Ingleby Manor, a 16th- and 17th-century two-courtyard house with a tower and a six-bay Tuscan arcade, set in a landscape that once held separate red- and fallow-deer parks.
The nearest station is Battersby, under a mile from the pub on the Esk Valley Line between Middlesbrough and Whitby. There is no taxi rank and no frequent bus, so arriving without a car takes planning. Stokesley lies four and a half miles west of the village.
The cricket ground sits just outside the village on the Great Broughton road. The club's records start with a match against Swainby in 1843, and in 1896 Chop Gate bowled Ingleby out for a total of zero. From the boundary you look across to Roseberry Topping and Captain Cook's Monument.