Simply Seafoods trades from the Old Harbour Master's Office on Castle Square, and it is one of the smallest fishmonger shops you will find anywhere. Sarah runs it, prepares everything, and gets named in half the reviews the place collects. The counter holds wet fish landed at the harbour below, live and cooked crab and lobster, ready-to-eat cockles and prawns and mussels, and crab sandwiches made from a hundred per cent crab meat. You can stand at the door with a roll in your hand and watch the boats that caught what is in it. Tenby is a town where the supply chain is about forty feet long.
The harbour is the middle of everything. Pastel Georgian and Victorian terraces stack up the rock above it, medieval walls run along the landward approaches, and three sandy beaches — North, South and Castle — wrap round the headland the town is crowded onto. St Catherine's Island rises straight out of Castle Beach with a Napoleonic fort on top; Caldey Island sits across the bay with a working Cistercian monastery on it. Goscar Rock stands on North Beach doing nothing in particular. Its local nickname is "the slumbering giant." The Welsh name for the town is Dinbych-y-pysgod, "little fort of the fish," which after five minutes at Simply Seafoods reads less like poetry and more like a job description.
Eating here starts with the fish and then keeps going. Plantagenet House, on Quay Hill next to the National Trust's Tudor Merchant's House, sits in the oldest building in Tenby — parts said to date to the tenth century — with exposed beams, flagstone floors and a forty-foot medieval Flemish chimney inside. The menu runs to Tenby lobster, mussels, scallops, oysters, swordfish and Barbary duck. Stables, on South Parade, is in a former coaching inn wedged between the town walls, and when Pembrokeshire lobster is landed it turns up as a grilled lobster salad: half at £35, whole at £70, with lemon and parsley butter or thermidor. Reviewers call it small, intimate and candlelit, unpretentious food in elegant surroundings, rustic rather than fine dining. The Baytree, on Tudor Square, has been in the Davies family since 1986; Karen bought in during 1999, Head Chef Luke has run the kitchen for over ten years, and the beef and lamb are PGI-certified Welsh from a local butcher. People go back for the 16oz rump steak.
For the town's single best-loved room you go up an alleyway at the top of Frog Street to Fuchsia, which won the Tripadvisor Travellers' Choice Award four years running and has ranked as the number one restaurant in Tenby. The Fuchsia Full Welsh is local butcher's sausage, thick-cut Welsh bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, a free-range egg, beans and buttered toast; the Full Vegan swaps in vegan sausage, hash brown and avocado and runs to £9.85. Dogs get complimentary treats. That last detail is not incidental here. No.25 on the High Street puts down water and treats for dogs on arrival, and reviewers who arrive with dogs tend to say it is the most welcome they have been made to feel in a cafe. The indoor market café keeps a sausage on hand for visiting puppies and a sign reading "VERY DOG FRIENDLY," in capitals, in case the sausage is ambiguous.
Then there are the Feccis, who have been feeding Tenby since the nineteenth century. Giuseppe Fecci is said to have walked from Italy across Europe, marrying his wife in Paris on the way, and opened an Italian ice cream parlour in 1919. The chip shop followed in 1935. It now gets through around 1,200 portions of fish and chips a week, four tonnes of potatoes a week in summer, and once managed a tonne and a half in a single day; the homemade fishcakes still use the 1940s recipe. The property has a story of its own — advertised at £100, sold to the family for £99 by a friend after the seller refused to deal with "the Italians," with the Feccis handing the friend a pound for his trouble. Del Fecci, gesturing at a shelf of awards, told a reporter: "They don't come to Tenby for our chips." For ice cream there is also Tenby's Ice Cream on the High Street with Bruno Gelatos across many flavours, and the Stowaway Coffee Co., set in a Grade II listed harbour arch that used to be a Victorian boat store, pouring additive-free Mary's Farmhouse ice cream and doing sausage rolls people rave about. Loafley on Upper Frog Street handles the bread — sourdough, Welsh cakes, pastries and sausage rolls.
The pubs cluster tight in the old streets. HARBWR, the town's brewery tap and kitchen on Sergeants Lane, was founded in 2015 by a family who used to run the Buccaneer and the Hope & Anchor, and brews everything on site — the beers named after famous Tenby boats. Caldey Lollipop was a ferry run aground and wrecked on North Beach in a 1961 storm; the Sea Horse takes its name from the last working Tenby lugger, built in 1885. The kitchen does Welsh steaks and locally caught fish, and there is a sunny beer garden backing onto the historic Sergeants Lane. The Crown Inn on Lower Frog Street is family-run with two regular cask ales and a changing third, dogs welcome everywhere with a water bowl and treats behind the bar, and live music from jazz to honky-tonk. Tenby House Hotel on Tudor Square went up in 1821, built by Sir William Paxton on the site of the old Globe Hotel; it keeps a real ale on tap — often St Austell Tribute — and does fish and chips, rib-eye and fresh local crab, with Griffens Beach Bar attached for the children. The Normandie has a courtyard tucked between the ancient walls that claims to be one of the sunniest beer gardens in town, and Salty's sits out on South Beach with Caldey views for the sunset.
The walking leaves from the front door, which is the thing that sets the town apart from a lot of the coast. South Beach runs two miles of broad sand from the town toward Giltar Point, backed by the dune system called The Burrows; a full circuit out to the point and back via Penally is about 7.9 miles with 450 feet of ascent. Two things worth knowing before you go: the return crosses Tenby Golf Club, so stray balls are a genuine hazard, and the clifftop stretch borders the MOD firing range at Penally and closes during firing, at which point you detour through the village. Northward, the classic walk rounds Monkstone Point through Rhode Wood to Saundersfoot — about 4.5 miles, up and down, the secluded Monkstone beach reached only by seriously steep steps. Shorter and gentler is the 2.3-mile route from North Beach to Waterwynch, a tiny sand-and-pebble cove, past Goscar Rock and the fulmar cliffs. And for anyone who wants the sea without the climb, a level 605-metre path runs from Penally station across the golf links and through the dunes onto the south end of the beach — wheelchair-accessible, with a bench halfway. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs 186 miles in total and goes straight through the town, so day sections in either direction are as easy as walking out and turning round.
For a family week the harbour does most of the work. Boat trips leave for Caldey Island — £18 for adults, £10 for children in 2026, under-threes free — to see the monastery, the seabirds and possible puffins, and to swim off Priory Beach; buy tickets early, because the boats sell out by midday in peak summer. Seal Safari cruises drift round the ocean side of Caldey and St Margaret's among the grey seals. St Catherine's Island, with its Palmerston fort, can be reached on foot for about two hours either side of low tide, but the sea comes back fast, so check the tables before you commit a family to a rock. The RNLI lifeboat station, operational since 1852, opens to visitors. Off the harbour wall at high tide, families buy crabbing lines and bacon bait and fish for crabs, which costs almost nothing and occupies a child for an entire afternoon.
The town wears its history lightly, but there is a lot of it. St Mary's is Grade I listed as "an outstanding late medieval church," most of the fabric fifteenth century, its 152-foot spire a lot of spire for a place this size; the chancel wagon roof carries 75 carved bosses including a mermaid, a green man, and Jesus with the four Apostles. Robert Recorde, born in Tenby around 1512, invented the equals sign in a 1557 book called The Whetstone of Witte. The town walls are among the best-preserved in Britain, though of four original gates only the West Gate survives, defended by the barbican with five rounded archways that everyone calls the Five Arches. Tenby never made it into the Domesday Book, because Domesday only covered England; the earliest reference is a ninth-century Welsh poem, Etmic Dinbych, "The Praise of Tenby." By the seventeenth century the place had all but collapsed — plague in 1650 killed roughly half the population, and John Wesley recorded that two-thirds of the old town was in ruins or had entirely vanished. Sir William Paxton revived it as a bathing resort after 1802; the railway arrived in 1863 and the pastel terraces followed.
Augustus John was born on The Esplanade in 1878 and grew up here with his sister Gwen, both of them becoming two of Wales's most celebrated painters. He spent his boyhood, by his own account, in and out of the sea at Lydstep, Monkstone and other spots along the coast. Beatrix Potter stayed at 2 Croft Terrace in 1900 and sketched a garden pond that later turned up in Peter Rabbit. Roald Dahl came every Easter as a child. And every Boxing Day since 1970, whatever the weather, a crowd of people in fancy dress runs into the sea off the town beach and out again, collects a charity medal, and goes to find a hot chocolate.