The Buck's Head sits beside the River Meon, with a garden and outdoor seating that look over the water. Inside, a Valoriani oven turns out sourdough pizzas proved for 48 hours, a feature visitors often praise. There are five en-suite rooms upstairs, Greene King Abbot and IPA on cask alongside two rotating beers, and dogs are welcome. Breakfast covers a Full English built on Buckinghams of West Meon sausage, Eggs Royale, Eggs Benedict, avocado and poached eggs, or American-style pancakes.
The village stores double as the Post Office, standing on Warnford Road in Corhampton where the A32 runs through, and Nell Ravenscroft runs it as a stop for the walkers and cyclists who pass on the South Downs Way and the Meon Valley Trail. The shelves carry fresh fruit and veg, local artisan bread, gluten-free food, maps and local books, along with real and craft ales, wine and spirits. Local producers get a blue dot: Briddlesford Farm Dairy, ChalkStream trout, Exton Park sparkling wine, Summerdown peppermint, Tunworth cheese, Grover Butchers. They make up hampers to order. Rosa and Jonathan Allen ran the same shop in the 1930s.
St Andrew's stands on the left bank of the Meon, flint-walled and mostly 13th-century, its west tower added in the 15th and its upper part and porch rebuilt around 1900. The four-bay nave alternates round and octagonal columns. There is a Norman font of Purbeck marble, a Jacobean pulpit, a medieval consecration cross still painted on the wall, and two medieval tomb slabs. The Memorial Chapel window and the Lawrence monument in the churchyard are the work of Mary Lowndes and Mary Seton Watts.
Road widening on the A32 in the 1930s turned up Roman foundations, and excavations between 1984 and 1991 uncovered the collapsed end wall of an enormous aisled building, perhaps forty Roman feet high. Its arcaded façade now stands in the British Museum, dated to the early fourth century and known to have fallen some time after AD 353 from the coins found beneath it. Later digging found a hexagonal building and, buried under it, a small mare and a newborn foal laid down in the Late Iron Age, raising the possibility of long-lived ritual activity on the site.
Domesday recorded the place as Menestoche: twenty-eight households, two mills, and on the Bishop of Winchester's share a value of £2 5s that had risen from £1 5s in 1066. In 1231 Sir John Maunsel secured a Monday market and a St Margaret's fair. The largest manor later belonged to Alice Perrers, Edward III's companion; after forfeiture and restoration it passed via her husband, William de Windsor, to William of Wykeham, who gave it to Winchester College in 1385. Much of the village burned at the start of the 18th century; the houses that replaced it faced the street and were reached by tall flights of steps, which still mark that stretch.
For walking, the Meon Valley Trail follows the old railway eleven miles from West Meon to Wickham, flat and wide and free of stiles, so it takes pushchairs and mobility scooters as readily as bikes. The South Downs Way crosses here too, dropping off 201-metre Beacon Hill through Exton and Meonstoke before climbing to the Iron Age hillfort on Old Winchester Hill, where the chalk grassland carries wildflowers and butterflies through summer.
Getting here takes some planning. Botley, the nearest railway station, is about seven miles off, and the community minibus runs to Fareham on Mondays, Petersfield on Wednesdays and Winchester on Fridays; a car may be more convenient. The Meon still runs clear past the church, the same chalk stream that once turned the mill Domesday recorded here.