Three walls of a Roman fort stand at the edge of the village, still close to their original height, flint and brick banded and studded with six pear-shaped bastions. They enclose a field above the marsh. The fourth wall, the western one, is gone: it slid into the reeds long ago, so the fort now faces the water with one side open. Built in the late third century as part of a chain guarding the Saxon Shore, it was in use for little more than a hundred years. The walls are about three metres thick.
From inside them the ground drops away to Breydon Water, where the Waveney and the Yare meet and spread into tidal mudflats and grazing marsh. Berney Arms Mill stands out across the reedbeds. Bearded tits nest in the reeds; in winter marsh and hen harriers work the flats. A circular all-weather path runs round the fort, level enough for wheelchairs, and dogs are welcome on leads. It is also the start of a 1.5-mile loop that takes in the round-tower church before returning along the boardwalk. For a longer day, an 8.5-mile circular follows Breydon Water with no shelter and no facilities anywhere on it, so carry what you need.
The church, St Peter and St Paul, has a late-eleventh-century round tower. Inside is an octagonal font carved with crouching lions on its stem and, around the bowl, lions alternating with angels holding shields. A lancet window commemorates St Fursey, the Irish missionary who founded a monastery here in 633 on land given by a king; the fort may be the Cnobheresburg that Bede names. The church is Grade II* and in poor repair, which its own parish still calls "a place of utter peace and tranquillity."
The village lost its shop, and the Post Office with it, a few years back. What remains is the drinking and eating. The Queen's Head has stood here at least 180 years, since when it was one of two pubs and the other closed in 1906. Diners mention homemade meat pies, chicken-and-mushroom among them, ham with eggs and mash, jacket potatoes and Sunday roasts, and the pub pours Greene King Abbot alongside changing beers such as Lacons Encore. One recent diner, Judi F, advised going hungry because of the portions. Dogs are allowed in the bar, and there is a garden.
Down at the marina, the Fisherman's Inn is a single-storey riverside place with a log burner and a decked veranda over the water. Example dishes on the menu include steak pie with chips and beef gravy, a cheese-topped cottage pie and a Castle Burger that stacks a beef and a chicken burger together with cheese and bacon; the taps include Adnams Ghost Ship and Timothy Taylor Landlord. Patrons get free 24-hour moorings even though the marina is otherwise closed to the public. Burgh Hall, family-run, adds a Sunday carvery, indoor play, a seasonal pool and a Wednesday quiz that raises money for the air ambulance.
Great Yarmouth station is five miles away, with the number 3 and 3B buses running in between. The other way, at Fritton, the Redwings sanctuary keeps close to a hundred horses and donkeys, among them a Shire called Fox.