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The Flemish Chimney

River valley and village history

St Florence

A floral, cottage-lined Pembrokeshire village with a freestanding Flemish Chimney, medieval church and walks through the Ritec Valley.

Best for
Ritec Valley walking and village history
Give it
Time for the valley, church and village landmarks
Don't miss
The Flemish Chimney beside the old Village Pound

Photo: welshbabe · CC BY-SA 2.0 · cropped

The Fox verdict

Come inland for the walking and layered history

St Florence pairs the wooded Ritec Valley with a Norman-era story, surviving early buildings and a church with a twelfth-century core.

The village's most unusual landmark is the Grade II-listed Flemish Chimney, left standing after its small thatched building was demolished. A public footpath follows the River Ritec and an ancient drovers' road through ancient woodland and past Ritec Fen SSSI.

Where to go

Places in St Florence

Every place below is checked against a published source, listed with what it is and how long to give it.

Local signatures

3 places
The Sun Inn
02 Traditional village pub

The Sun Inn

A rustic eighteenth-century inn with a cosy setting, an eclectically decorated ceiling, hearty pub food, local ales and live music.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 90 minutes
Locality
village
03 Wildlife park

Manor Wildlife Park

A 52-acre wildlife park with reindeer, tapir, bison, zebra, camels, monkeys, meerkats and raccoons, bought in 2008 by Anna Ryder Richardson and Colin MacDougall.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 3 hours
Locality
at the edge of the village

Walks & outdoors

1 place
04 River, woodland and SSSI walk

Ritec Valley

A wooded river-valley walk past Ritec Fen SSSI, with moss-covered trees, celandines, bluebells and often waterlogged paths.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 2 hours
Locality
from the village near the Greenhills Hotel
Access
A public footpath from the village near the Greenhills Hotel follows an ancient drovers' road and the Ritec river through belts of ancient woodland and past Ritec Fen SSSI.

History & heritage

1 place
05 Grade II* listed church

Church of St Florentius

A Grade II* listed church with a twelfth-century core and a memorial to Robert Ferrar, the Protestant Bishop of St Davids who was burned at Carmarthen in 1555.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 30 minutes
Locality
St Florence

Three ways to explore St Florence

Signature outings

01 · Follow the river

Into the wooded Ritec Valley

A public footpath follows an ancient drovers' road and the River Ritec through belts of ancient woodland and past Ritec Fen SSSI.

02 · Read the fabric

Centuries in one church

St Florentius has a twelfth-century core, later medieval additions and a memorial to Robert Ferrar.

The Sun Inn
03 · Settle in

A ceiling full of stories

The eighteenth-century Sun Inn has an eclectically decorated ceiling whose objects have stories behind them.

The village story

St Florence, from Flemish chimney to Ritec Valley

The original Travel Fox article follows the village from its unusual surviving chimney and settler history through its pubs, river valley, church and Easter tradition.

The Flemish Chimney and the settlers

Beside the old Village Pound stands a chimney with no house attached to it. It once rose from a single-storey thatched building scarcely wider than the chimney itself, until that was demolished in the early twentieth century and left the chimney standing alone. It's Grade II listed and described as the last surviving example of its kind in the area. People call it the Flemish Chimney, on a theory popularised by the artist Charles Norris in the early nineteenth century that south Pembrokeshire's architecture came over with Flemish settlers. St Florence in particular, the theory went, was a Flemish village.

The settlers were real enough. After the Normans took south Pembrokeshire in the twelfth century, the king brought in Flemish families whose own lands had been flooded by the sea, as a buffer between the Normans of the south and the Welsh of the north. Sixteenth- and seventeenth-century buildings still stand here, several with the same distinctive chimneys.

Two village pubs

There are two pubs. The Sun Inn is the older one, an eighteenth-century inn that describes itself, on itself, as "a proper Welsh pub, as it should be." The ceiling is decorated with objects that each have a story behind them. The kitchen runs Tuesday to Saturday, six till nine, doing a Steak and Ale Pie with peas and gravy, a Curry of the Day with rice and mango chutney, and tempura-battered cod and chips. Thursdays at half past eight there's an open mic hosted by Tom Tenby.

On the north side of the village is the Parsonage Farm Inn, larger, with open log fires and a beer garden. The portions are large and the prices reasonable, and dogs are always welcome — there's a designated area and fresh water. Cod and chips, vegetarian curry, steak and ale pie, gluten-free options noted.

Shopping in Tenby and walks by the Ritec

There's no shop. The nearest full shopping is Tenby, three miles off, where the beaches and the Caldey Island boats are.

The walking is the reason to come inland. A public footpath near the old Greenhills Hotel follows an ancient drovers' road and the River Ritec through belts of ancient woodland, past Ritec Fen, a Site of Special Scientific Interest. One writer on Pembrokeshire.Online described entering "a mini-world of greens of every shade, where moss-covered trees formed arches over the narrow and often waterlogged path." A separate circular from Tenby drops you into the village along a tree-lined stream and out again by East Tarr Farm.

The lost wharf and St Florentius

The Ritec was once navigable by small boats as far up as St Florence, giving the village an inland wharf, until the river silted up in the nineteenth century and the wharf stopped being one.

The church of St Florentius is Grade II* listed with a twelfth-century core, first mentioned in 1248. Inside is a memorial to Robert Ferrar, Protestant Bishop of St Davids, burned at the stake at Carmarthen in 1555.

Wildlife and the Easter duck race

Manorbier station is a mile and a half southwest, though most people arrive by car off the B4318. On the edge of the village that road passes Manor Wildlife Park, fifty-two acres of reindeer, tapir, bison and meerkats bought in 2008 by the television presenter Anna Ryder Richardson.

Every Easter the village holds a duck race on the river for charity. The last one raised just over two thousand pounds.

Stay around Pembrokeshire

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A guide with a point of view

Written from research. Edited for real journeys.

Use the Official site links for live practical details, then use this guide for context, ideas and room to explore.

Photography credits & licences

Third-party photographs are credited to their named creators and reused under the linked Creative Commons licence or public-domain dedication. Travel Fox stores an optimised local copy; the file-specific changes and any browser-applied display crop are disclosed below. Reused photographs link both to the Wikimedia Commons source record and to the declared source image; Travel Fox's own photographs carry no such record and are marked as ours. These image licences do not cover Travel Fox text, branding or page design.

  • File:St Florence - Flemish Chimney and Plaques - geograph.org.uk - 4837674.jpg — photograph by welshbabe; St Florence - Flemish Chimney and Plaques by welshbabe. Source record on Wikimedia Commons. Declared source image. Licence: CC BY-SA 2.0. File changes: Downloaded from Wikimedia Commons, resized to a maximum 1920px edge and encoded as an optimised JPEG. Display changes: Displayed with responsive CSS cropping.
  • File:The Sun Inn, St Florence (geograph 5522885).jpg — photograph by Stephen McKay; Stephen McKay. Source record on Wikimedia Commons. Declared source image. Licence: CC BY-SA 2.0. File changes: Downloaded from Wikimedia Commons, resized to a maximum 1920px edge and encoded as an optimised JPEG. Display changes: Displayed with responsive CSS cropping.

Sources

Every place on this page is checked against a published source. Each entry links the record we used and names who publishes it.

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    St Florence Village Guide · Travel Fox