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Scottish Highlands

Invershin Village Guide

Scottish Highlands · Updated

Invershin station sits just off the A836, and it is a request stop: to board you signal the driver, and to get off you tell the conductor in good time. A kilometre away across the water is Culrain, and the two are the closest railway stations in the United Kingdom. You can walk between them by crossing the Shin Viaduct on a footbridge that was added in 2000.

The viaduct is the thing you notice first. Its wrought-iron lattice span and five stone approach arches were built for the Sutherland Railway by Joseph Mitchell and Murdoch Paterson, and it opened to traffic on 13 April 1868. Trains still cross it on the Far North Line. Depending on which map you read it is the Shin, the Oykel or the Invershin Viaduct; it is the same structure over the Kyle of Sutherland either way.

The Invershin Hotel stands beside the station and the road, which makes it the practical centre of a place that otherwise strings itself out along the A836. It has a bar with a real fire, a garden, rooms and a bunkhouse, and live music. CAMRA calls it the village local and records that real ale is always on, though not which one. Meals run to a cooked breakfast and, by one recent guest's account, an excellent steak. Most of the rooms look across the Kyle to Carbisdale Castle.

That castle is a Baronial mansion of 1907, probably by John Robertson of Inverness, with a crenellated octagonal tower and a high square clock tower on a wooded height opposite the village. It is a private residence, so it stays a view rather than a visit.

For walking, the Falls of Shin lie 2.4 miles off, where salmon leap on their way upriver. Three short waymarked trails start there. The Riverside Trail is a firm-surfaced kilometre through native woodland, home to aspen and the endangered aspen hoverfly. The Pond and Play Trail adds wildlife carvings and forest play areas over 1.3 kilometres. The Woodland Trail climbs through larch, fir and pine for about two kilometres, over ground that turns uneven with moderate slopes, to views across Achany Glen, where you can look and listen for buzzards and woodpeckers. There is a viewpoint, a picnic area, a play area and toilets, making it a strong family half-day from the village.

The village's own castle is harder to find. Invershin Castle survives as an overgrown mound above the Kyle, with a dry ditch on three sides and a single turf-covered scrap of wall; the likeliest reading is a 12th-century motte. The lands here were granted between 1203 and 1214 by Hugh Freskyn to Master Gilbert, archdeacon of Moray and later bishop of Caithness.

Up the wooded slopes to the north, the Battle of Carbisdale was fought on 27 April 1650. It was the last stand of James Graham, 1st Marquis of Montrose, whose Royalist army was routed by Covenanter forces; he was captured within days and taken to Edinburgh to be tried and executed. One of the hills on the battlefield is Creag a' Choineachan, Lamentation Hill.

Practical things are few and worth knowing. Service 4 links the Invershin Hotel with Lairg, Bonar Bridge, Ardgay and Tain, roughly four times each way on weekdays. A mobile library calls every three weeks. The village hall, kept going by a committee registered as a charity, hosts ceilidhs and parties for a settlement scattered along the roadside.

It was in that hall, in 2013, that a visiting priest set up a fortnightly mission for a village that had not previously had a visible church presence. He described the place plainly. "It is a quiet place, surrounded by forests and hills."

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Good to know

  • Access & terrain It has a firm gravel surface, short fairly steep slopes and two road crossings; aspen and the endangered aspen hoverfly are highlights. Source · forestryandland.gov.scot
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