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Porth Swtan

Church Bay

A small rocky-and-sandy bay backed by cliffs, with nearby seafood, giant scones and Anglesey's last surviving thatched cottage.

Best for
Cliff walks, the beach and local seafood
Give it
Time for the coast, the cottage and a meal
Don't miss
Swtan's earth floor and the Lobster Pot's offshore catch

The Fox verdict

Beach, seafood and the last thatched cottage

Come for Porth Swtan's sand, shingle and high cliffs; stay for a thatched-cottage museum and two family-run food stops.

Church Bay is little more than a handful of houses near the beach. Its visitor experiences include a strenuous coastal circuit, the restored Swtan cottage, fresh seafood above the cove and Wavecrest's giant scones at the lookout.

Where to go

Places in Church Bay

Every place below is checked against a published source, listed with what it is and how long to give it.

Local signatures

3 places
02 Seafood Restaurant

The Lobster Pot

A family-run restaurant established in 1946, serving fresh Welsh pot-caught lobster and crab supplied through the family's fishing heritage; the seasonal menu also includes locally sourced meats and a children's menu.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: Allow around 90 minutes
Locality
above the cove
Access
Booking is recommended, especially at weekends.
03 Beach Café

Wavecrest Café

Penny's family-run café is known for giant All in One scones with strawberries and cream, alongside cheese and onion pie, fish pie and Granny Hudson's apple pie and custard.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: Allow around 45 minutes
Locality
at the lookout above the beach
Access
The café opens seasonally; Zoe's Cake Cabin covers its regular closed days.

Walks & outdoors

1 place
04 Coastal Walk

Church Bay to Ynys y Fydlyn Circular

A high-cliff circular to the tiny split islet of Ynys y Fydlyn, where a collapsed cave or blowhole appears to have severed the rock from the mainland.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: Allow around 180 minutes
Locality
Church Bay to Ynys y Fydlyn
Access
The route is strenuous, with steep ups and downs; good boots and hill gear are advised.

History & heritage

1 place
05 Heritage Museum

Swtan Heritage Museum

Anglesey's last surviving thatched cottage is a restored crogloft dwelling with an earth floor and period artefacts; children can feed hens, and the site also has vintage tools, a herb garden, an orchard and a sheltered picnic area.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: Allow around 60 minutes
Locality
Church Bay

Three ways to explore Church Bay

Signature outings

01 · Step inside

The island's last thatch

See Swtan's earth floor and period artefacts, then feed the hens and explore the herb garden and old Welsh apple varieties.

02 · Drop to the shore

Sand, shingle and rock pools

Take the very steep but good path from the lookout to Porth Swtan's sandy middle, shingly cliff edges and rock pools.

03 · Climb the coast

The split islet

Follow the strenuous high-cliff circular to Ynys y Fydlyn, a tiny islet split in two beside a collapsed cave or blowhole.

The village story

Church Bay Village Guide

A small Anglesey bay shaped by family fishing, giant scones, a steep beach path, an unseen church and a cottage restored from ruin.

Lobster by the metre

At the Lobster Pot the lobster comes up from a boat run by the two brothers of the woman who cooks it, which is roughly the arrangement the family has had since 1946. John and Freda Wilson turned their cottage, Glan-yr-Afon, into a café serving lobster teas that year; nearly eighty years on it's their granddaughter Julie Hill running the restaurant while her brothers Tristan and Graham fish the shellfish offshore. One description of the setup calls it "measured in metres rather than miles." The kitchen does pot-caught lobster and crab as the catch allows — Lobster Thermidor with white wine, cream and mustard, Lobster Mornay under Welsh cheddar, scallops seared in garlic butter, crab baked with a parmesan gratin — plus Welsh beef for anyone who came this far to the sea and didn't want fish. Book ahead at weekends.

Scones above the beach

Up at the lookout above the beach is the Wavecrest Café, run by Penny, who makes the food fresh each day and is known across this side of Anglesey for scones the size that require the phrase "about a mile high." They come with strawberries and cream. A North Wales Live reviewer, Christopher Davies, called it "the North Wales café with extraordinary views that's so popular it's hard to get a table," and admitted he'd worked in the area seventeen years before finding it. Specials run to cheese and onion pie, fish pie, and Granny Hudson's apple pie and custard. It opens roughly Thursday to Sunday from Easter to September; the other three days Penny's daughter Zoe runs Zoe's Cake Cabin instead.

Down the steep path

From the lookout a very steep but good path drops to the beach, about 300 metres across, sandy in the middle and shingly under the cliffs. People swim, sunbathe, work the rock pools, light barbecues in the evening, and surf if they're brave. Walk the cliffs north early on a summer evening and, as one account has it, they're full of rabbits, with seagulls working the updraughts. Offshore to the north-west the Skerries Lighthouse sits on the horizon, and the sunsets are the reason people stand at the top of the path.

The unseen church and the pub up the hill

The bay's English name comes from a church you can't see from here — St Rhuddlad's, inland at Rhydwyn, was the landmark sailors steered by. The Welsh name, Porth Swtan, means Port Whiting. The pub is up the hill at Rhydwyn: the Church Bay Inn serves drink but no food, keeps up to two real ales, and has a terraced beer garden looking over Holyhead Bay, plus glamping pods.

The cottage brought back

The village's one museum is the last thatched cottage on Anglesey. Swtan was restored from a collapsed ruin — its roof beam had been an old ship's mast, and it rotted through — reopened in 2000 and run since as a charity. Inside is an earth floor, a herb garden, hens to feed and a small orchard of old Welsh apples. Gwilym Jones, the last person born in the cottage, went on to serve for years as the restoration trust's treasurer.

A guide with a point of view

Written from research. Edited for real journeys.

Use the Official site links for live practical details, then use this guide for context, ideas and room to explore.

Sources

Every place on this page is checked against a published source. Each entry links the record we used and names who publishes it.

  • Porth Swtan / Church Bay Beachvisitanglesey.co.uk operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • Swtan Heritage Museumswtan.cymru operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • The Lobster Potthelobsterpot.net operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • Wavecrest Caféwavecrestcafe.co.uk operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • Church Bay to Ynys y Fydlyn Circularvisitanglesey.co.uk operator, sector body or destination organisation

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    Church Bay Village Guide · Travel Fox