Balloch

Steamship, River and Village Tables

On the slipway at the north edge of Balloch, a paddle steamer sits out of the water. The Maid of the Loch was the last paddle steamer built in Britain, put together at A. & J. Inglis in Glasgow, taken apart again, carried here in sections by rail and reassembled on the shore before her launch in March 1953. That double journey earned her the nickname "up and doon." For twenty-eight years she carried day-trippers around Loch Lomond, licensed for a thousand passengers at a time, about three million of them in all, before she was decommissioned in 1981 and left to decay. Volunteers rescued her from near-dereliction in 1996, and she has been an active restoration project ever since, with a museum cabin alongside and a working steam winch that shows how a small engine and a great deal of gearing haul five hundred and fifty-five gross tons of ship up the slip. She does not sail; current sightseeing cruises leave separately from Riverside.

The village sits where Loch Lomond narrows and drains south into the River Leven, and almost everything in Balloch is arranged along that short stretch of water. The railway station is the terminus of the line from Glasgow Queen Street, step-free. From there it is about fifteen minutes on foot along the Leven to Loch Lomond Shores, though the pubs, chip shops and cruise boats are closer still, gathered around the station and the Balloch Road bridge, a three-arch steel structure of 1908 that still carries its original lamp standards. The cruises themselves leave from Riverside, where Sweeney's Cruise Company runs boats out onto the loch with recorded commentary by the actor and musician Thoren Ferguson. The family has worked these waters since the 1880s.

Balloch House Hotel stands on the east bank of the Leven, on the site of the old ferry landing where a ferryman's steading once stood. It is the most traditional destination pub in the village, built up around log fires and a garden, and it keeps Sharp's Doom Bar as its regular cask ale. The kitchen runs to fillet of salmon with king prawns in a white-wine sauce, home-baked pies, beef and red-wine lasagne, a fish pie and a Pimm's strawberry trifle. Dogs are welcome in the bar and outside, with water and treats, though not in the dining room. The house tells its own history back to the early nineteenth century and counts Hans Christian Andersen and the exiled French Empress Eugénie among its claimed visitors, which is the sort of thing a country hotel will tell you and you are free to take as you find it.

Inns, Independents and the Shores

Beside Balloch station, the Tullie Inn is a pub with rooms in a building dating to 1893, identified as an Arts and Crafts villa. It has a restaurant, bar and beer garden, where well-behaved dogs are welcome.

The rest spread out from there. The Queen of the Loch, on Old Luss Road, is the family pub, geared to meals and sport and children, with a play area and a roast carvery alongside chicken-and-mushroom pie, steak-and-ale pie and a mixed grill. The Waterhouse Inn, also called Tigh an Uisge, is a small family-run inn of seven bedrooms where the Dawson family have been in local hospitality for more than forty years; the kitchen bakes in house and serves fresh-battered haddock, chicken in peppercorn sauce, steak pie and a macaroni cheese you can have with haggis or black pudding through it. Pets are not allowed there. The Dog House Bar, at 54 Balloch Road, is the plain local of the group, a traditional back room with a fireplace and a more modern front bar, sport and live music, and, as the name promises, a genuine welcome for dogs. The Glenroy Bar at the Lomond Park Hotel pairs with the hotel's all-day restaurant, Raffles, and Monkey Island Café Bar sits out at the Riverside departure point, more a terrace for coffee, cake and a drink before a cruise than a pub in its own right.

For food beyond the bars, the village keeps a decent independent spread. The Palombo family opened their fish-and-chip restaurant here in 1996, frying in a fresh gluten-free batter and turning out lentil soup, steak pie, haggis and black pudding with whisky sauce and a family-recipe stone-baked pizza. Lomond Fish Bar sits opposite the station for chips to carry away. Annaya's Indian occupies 100 Balloch Road, a corner that has changed hands in recent years; there is Cucina for Italian, and Princess Rose on Old Luss Road for Chinese, relaunched under new owners in 2023. Lomond Stores, the convenience shop and off-licence in the centre, has served Balloch for more than fifty years and sells deli goods, fruit and vegetables, filled rolls and Pepe's homemade tablet.

Markets and Paths from the Waterfront

The larger shopping is at the waterfront, a cluster rather than a high street, with Frasers, Mountain Warehouse, Tweeds of Scotland for Harris Tweed and kiltwear, Stevie's Drams for whisky, and Loch Lomond News, which sells toys, hobby goods and ice cream. A farmers' and producers' market runs there on the first and third Sunday of the month, its stalls of bread, smoked fish, Scottish cheese, pies, preserves and local gin shifting with the season.

Walking is what most people come for. Balloch Castle Country Park runs to two hundred acres of grass, ornamental and semi-natural woodland, formal gardens and loch shore, and it is the only country park inside the National Park. The named corners are half the pleasure of it: Fairy Glen, the Secret Garden, the Kitchen Garden, the Pleasure Grounds. In Fairy Glen the sculptor Patrick Muir has carved the stumps of felled trees into figures. The Castle View Route is about three kilometres, climbing the main avenue to the castle-and-loch views before dropping down a steep zigzag to the shore and returning beside the water; the Walled Garden Route is shorter, linking the avenue, the walled and secret gardens and the river bridge; and the Shore Path is nearer six kilometres along the Leven and a mile of loch, with tree roots making parts of it uneven. Closer to the Shores there is a level loop of about a kilometre on made paths, boardwalk and beach, suitable for baby buggies and some wheelchairs.

For longer legs the West Loch Lomond Cycle Path runs seventeen miles from Balloch to Tarbet by way of Luss, mostly traffic-free, and walkers use it as readily as cyclists; a train or a seasonal boat back makes it a one-way day. The Three Lochs Way starts in Balloch and heads off through Helensburgh, Garelochhead and Arrochar towards Inveruglas over three or four days of generally low ground, and the long-distance John Muir Way passes through the village and the park on its route between Helensburgh and Dunbar.

Castles, Crossings and Modern Churches

The castle the park is named for is not the one you first picture. The present building is a castellated Gothic mansion designed by Robert Lugar in 1808 for John Buchanan, a partner in the Glasgow Ship Bank who signed banknotes at the house; the mansion is closed to visitors, so the park's grounds and the mansion's exterior frame the visitor experience. The older castle, built around 1238 for the Earls of Lennox after Malcolm III granted them the Lennox lands in 1072, survives only as a mound, a moat and an earthwork near the loch outflow, a scheduled monument now. Buchanan used its stone for his new house. Sir Walter Scott set part of Rob Roy at the ruins where the loch pours into the Leven. Glasgow Corporation bought the whole estate in 1914, partly to give its trams somewhere to run to, and the grounds opened as a country park in the early 1980s. The early-nineteenth-century Walled Garden, Category B listed with red-sandstone dressings and cast-iron gates, has come through unusually intact.

Before all of that the crossing was the thing. William Roy's mid-eighteenth-century map labels the place "Balloch Boat," and a chain ferry worked the Leven until a bridge replaced it in 1841, carrying cattle drovers moving south from the Highland gathering grounds as well as ordinary traffic. The Moss o' Balloch Horse Fair, held in September, was once big enough to bring hundreds of horses and shut the village for a holiday. The local historian John Barr remembered fair day as "husbands with their wives and children, masters and servants all in their Sunday garb." By 1911 it had dwindled to two fillies, though the fairground rides outlasted the horse trade by years. Steamers came in 1816, when David Napier began a service from the east bank, and the railway arrived in 1850, joining Clyde steamers, trains and Loch Lomond boats in one deliberate interchange, with a direct Glasgow line following in 1855.

For all its castle and its ferry, Balloch had no church of its own until the 1950s. St Kessog's Roman Catholic church opened that decade and remains an active parish; the white, square-towered building now used by Lomond Parish took over its Balloch home in the 1960s. Both are twentieth-century buildings on ground far older than either of them.

Family Shores and the Highland View

There is a good deal for children packed along the waterfront complex: the SEA LIFE aquarium with its ocean tunnel, rockpool and resident Asian short-clawed otter named Tofu, the GO WILD treetop course, a Bird of Prey Centre, a mini train and boats to hire on the loch. The country park has play areas at the lochside and at Moss o' Balloch, and it has held the Loch Lomond Highland Games and, over the years, concerts by R.E.M., Oasis and Runrig on its lawns.

None of this is remote Highland country, and it does not pretend to be. Balloch is a designed and worked edge, where lawns and conifers give way to beach, marina, railway and cruise pier, with the Highland Boundary Fault running through the lower loch and Ben Lomond standing at the far end of the view. The hills belong to the north; the village belongs to the crossing. A morning on the waterfront, an afternoon along the shore and a train back to Glasgow before dark make a plausible day of it.