The Swan Inn stands where the lane meets the River Windrush, a stone inn with a flagstone bar, elm beams, oak settles and a log fire. The kitchen holds two AA rosettes and cooks to the season: a smoked Applewood soufflé with apricot purée, devilled lambs' kidneys on sourdough, a pie of salmon, haddock and prawn, a local pork chop with apple purée and cider jus, roasted harissa cauliflower with halloumi, hazelnuts and miso jus. Local beers and real ales are popular at the bar.
The building is mid-18th-century and Grade II listed, and for years it belonged to Deborah Mitford — Debo, later Duchess of Devonshire — who inherited neighbouring Mill Cottage from a friend and bought the pub at a price she thought advantageous. She remembered a former landlady, Mrs Bunce, who dressed in black and kept the Saturday-night regulars in order.
The Swan's rooms are pet-free. For shopping you drive two miles west to Burford, which has a sloping High Street of independent shops, the free Tolsey Museum and a large wool church, and doubles as the practical hub for onward buses.
Up on a slightly raised site, so that from across the valley it appears to hover above the roofs, stands St Mary's. Its origins are 11th-century and the west tower was added in 1822. Inside are two Fettiplace monuments: triple tiers of reclining stone family members, six in all, carved around 1613 and 1686. There are also 15th-century choir stalls with misericords, a font of the same age, a 17th-century pulpit and fragments of medieval glass.
In the churchyard lie four of the Mitford sisters — Nancy, Unity, Diana and Pamela — beside their parents, with a plaque inside for their brother Tom. Their father, Lord Redesdale, really did hunt his own children across the fields with his bloodhounds; Debo confirmed it, and added that the hounds were delighted when they caught up.
A five-mile circuit links Swinbrook with Asthall and Widford, passing the isolated church of St Oswald's at Widford, on Roman remains beside the deserted medieval settlement abandoned after the plague, before crossing fields and the Windrush on stiles and stone bridges. A longer loop of around six miles from Burford covers much of the same ground; allow 2.5–3 hours.
The village itself is loose-knit and low, spread along winding lanes in the flat bottom of the valley, with old stone houses set among trees, hedges and drystone walls. The conservation appraisal records no brick-built structures in the village; even the 20th-century additions were built to the colour of the older stone. The earliest settlers benefited from the river and spring water, the riverside meadow pasture and the shelter of the narrowing valley, and the Roman road of Akeman Street ran close by.
The village hall, which backs onto Swinbrook Brook, has a small kitchen, toilets, Wi-Fi and a garden, and takes private bookings. The old telephone box has been given over to a defibrillator.
Getting here takes some planning. The nearest station, Shipton, is a few miles off with a thin service and neither a taxi rank nor a bus outside it, so a car may be the simplest option. Swinbrook sits two miles east of Burford on minor valley roads, with Fulbrook and Asthall reached the same way; Burford itself joins Oxford and Cheltenham by the A40. For a family day out, the Cotswold Wildlife Park is about five miles on.
The Domesday commissioners valued Swinbrook at two pounds in 1086, down from three twenty years before. Some of what has followed is grander than the sums suggest, and some of it is unchanged: the same river, the same raised church, the same stone.
Deborah Mitford spent much of her life elsewhere, at Chatsworth and in the wider world, but she kept coming back to this handful of houses in the valley — the place, she said, "which I do love beyond anything."
