A Davy lamp sits on the mantelpiece at The Pit, the only pub in Newstead, alongside a hall stand of original miners' jackets and hard hats and a wall of photographs of Newstead Colliery. It's a small room, 80 capacity, built into the former village cricket pavilion on the recreation ground, and it's the reason people come to Newstead who aren't here for Byron.
Landlady Lorraine Horrocks opened it around 2019 after a conversation with a friend over drinks, then spent months arguing with the local authority to get it open. "There was absolutely nothing for adults to do," she said of the village after the colliery closed in 1987. The Pit, in her words, became "an absolute lifeline."
It has three real ales on hand pull, all locally brewed, two real ciders, and a listing in CAMRA's Good Beer Guide. Food runs to Pit melts, toasties served with homemade "Pitslaw" coleslaw and tortilla chips, and Pitdog hotdogs with a choice of sauces and crispy onions. There's a Sunday quiz night, and the gig nights have drawn Terrorvision frontman Tony Wright, who's played there four times, and singer-songwriter Nick Harper. Dogs are welcome on leads, and the beer garden looks straight out over the cricket pitch, so on a match day you can watch from a bench with a pint.
Beyond the pub, Newstead keeps things modest: a post office and general stores on Tilford Road, open mornings and early afternoons on weekdays, shut Sundays, and not much else — no butcher, no bakery.
What the village has instead is space. Newstead & Annesley Country Park, laid out over the old colliery spoil tips just north of the village, has a 7.2km waymarked loop through woodland, lakeside paths and open grassland, dogs on leads welcome. A wind turbine now stands where pit wastewater once drained into ponds feeding the River Leen. National Cycle Route 6 runs past the pub and the railway station.
And then there's the Abbey, which the village sits beside rather than around. Newstead Priory was founded in 1170 by Henry II as penance for the murder of Thomas Becket, and passed to the Byron family in 1540 after the Dissolution. The poet inherited it derelict at ten and lived there from 1808, keeping a tame bear brought back from Cambridge, where there had been no college rule against bears, to join a tame wolf already resident from his predecessor's day. A gardener once dug up a monk's skull in the grounds; Byron had it mounted into a drinking cup and passed round at gatherings of his self-founded Order of the Skull. It explains the 300 acres of parkland next door, with its chain of three lakes and a waterfall you can walk behind.
St Mary's Church came later: 1928, built for the "New Village" of miners' terraces around it, its Building Committee turning down outside funding because they had, in their own words, "sufficient funds to put up a decent church."
Trains still stop in the village, roughly hourly to Nottingham and Worksop on the Robin Hood Line, with the A611 and the M1 close by for drivers. On a Saturday afternoon, though, the better bet is the beer garden at The Pit, watching the cricket, a Pitdog going cold on the bench beside you.