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Hen races and high chancels

Bonsall

A former lead-mining village in steep limestone dales, with eccentric pubs, layered history and named walking routes.

Best for
Village history, walking and one-off pubs
Give it
An unhurried half day
Don't miss
The thirteen-step market cross and Bonsall Imp

The Fox verdict

A village with stories at every turn

Bonsall combines serious walking and mining history with hen racing, UFO lore and two characterful pubs.

The stepped medieval market cross and St James's seven-step chancel give the village strong historic anchors, while the Barley Mow, King's Head, Cascades Gardens and routes through the surrounding limestone landscape make a varied visit.

Where to go

Places in Bonsall

Every place below is checked against a published source, listed with what it is and how long to give it.

Local signatures

3 places
02 Terraced garden

Cascades Gardens

Terraced gardens first planted in the eighteenth century on an old corn-mill site, where Bonsall Brook cascades over waterfalls; plants are also sold here.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 120 minutes
Locality
Bonsall
03 Long-distance path

Limestone Way

A 46-mile White Peak long-distance path with Bonsall at the head of its Matlock branch.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 120 minutes for a section
Locality
at the head of the Matlock branch

Food & drink

1 place
04 Free house

The Barley Mow

An eccentric one-room free house packed with memorabilia, serving hearty homemade cooking and hosting the World Championship Hen Races in its car park.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 75 minutes
Locality
The Dale

Walks & outdoors

1 place
05 Walking route

Peak District Boundary Walk

A named walking route that passes straight through Bonsall.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 120 minutes for a section
Locality
through the village

History & heritage

2 places
06 Grade II* church

St James the Apostle's Church

A Grade II* church with a seven-step chancel famed as one of England's highest, and the Bonsall Imp, a carved figure at the base of a north-aisle column.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 45 minutes
Locality
Bonsall
07 Medieval market cross

Bonsall Market Cross

A medieval cross set on thirteen circular stone steps, topped by a ball added in 1671 despite Bonsall's rejected application for a market charter.

Visit length
Editorial estimate: allow around 20 minutes
Locality
the sloping square

Three ways to explore Bonsall

Signature outings

01 · Meet the village's odd side

Hen racing headquarters

The Barley Mow's car park becomes the arena for the World Championship Hen Races each August, a tradition formalised in 1992.

02 · Look inside the church

Seven steps and an imp

St James's chancel, famed as one of England's highest, rises by seven steps, while the Bonsall Imp sits at the base of a north-aisle column.

03 · Count the stone steps

A market that never came

The medieval market cross stands on thirteen circular steps beneath a ball added in 1671, despite the village's rejected market-charter application.

The village story

Bonsall Village Guide

Hen races, UFO stories, walking routes and centuries of village history in a limestone setting.

Hen Races and the Barley Mow

The car park behind the Barley Mow doubles as an arena. Each August it hosts the World Championship Hen Races, formalised in 1992. Outside race day, the space is a car park.

The one-room free house on The Dale is packed with memorabilia and run by Colette and Mick. Colette sings for a funk and soul band called Mancuso and runs music nights. The Telegraph named it Best Pub in Derbyshire in 2025, and the kitchen serves a steak and ale pie with buttery shortcrust and creamy mash, a "Luxury Boozy Beef Lasagne" made with red wine and pecorino, and a vegetarian lentil dish called "Dahl Darling."

UFOs and the King's Head

Between October 2000 and October 2002, nineteen sightings were recorded locally, including Sharon Rowlands's photograph of a circular object on 5 October 2000. Bonsall has attracted worldwide interest as a centre of paranormal activity, including UFO sightings.

In the Market Place, the King's Head dates to 1677. The family-run pub has low beams, Jacobean features and an external mounting block by the door, a detail that shows how people once arrived. Past landlords are listed on a notice behind the bar, and the pub is popular with walkers.

Walking Routes and the Market Cross

There is a good deal to walk. Bonsall sits on the Limestone Way, at the head of its Matlock branch, and the Peak District Boundary Walk passes straight through. A circular from Cromford climbs past old mills and mine workings to hilltop views. The steep road up from the Via Gellia — the A5012 — is known to cyclists as the Col du Bonsall, which is the kind of name a hard climb attracts.

The village arranges itself around a stepped market cross in the sloping square, medieval in origin and set on thirteen circular stone steps. The ball on top was added in 1671. Bonsall applied for a market charter around three hundred years ago and was turned down, so the cross presides over a market that never came.

The Church and Village Industries

St James the Apostle's is Grade II* and reputed to have one of the highest chancels in England — seven steps up to it. At the base of a column in the north aisle sits the Bonsall Imp, a small carved figure also known as the Little Devil.

This was a lead-mining village, then a frame-knitting one; by the mid-nineteenth century it had more than 140 knitting frames turning out stockings and fine woollens. The mill down in the Via Gellia gave its name to Viyella, the fabric.

The Mystery of the Horse Skulls

In 1866, workmen renovating a house uncovered twenty-nine horse skulls, every one missing its lower jaw. Their purpose remains unexplained. Local tradition links them to a legendary battle on Bonsall Moor.

For homeowners

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A guide with a point of view

Written from research. Edited for real journeys.

Use the Official site links for live practical details, then use this guide for context, ideas and room to explore.

Sources

Every place on this page is checked against a published source. Each entry links the record we used and names who publishes it.

  • The Barley Mow — camra.org.uk operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • King's Head — kingsheadbonsall.co.uk operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • St James the Apostle's Church — historicengland.org.uk statutory register or public authority record not machine-readable; publisher restricts automated access
  • Bonsall Market Cross — historicengland.org.uk statutory register or public authority record not machine-readable; publisher restricts automated access
  • Cascades Gardens — cascadesgardens.com operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • Limestone Way — visitpeakdistrict.com operator, sector body or destination organisation
  • Peak District Boundary Walk — cprepdsy.org.uk other published source

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    Bonsall Village Guide · Travel Fox