Seven Bronze Age barrows stand on Treyford Hill, the burial mounds known as the Devil's Jumps: five bell barrows run in a line roughly north-east to south-west, with two bowl barrows alongside them. Two of the bell barrows, partially excavated in the late nineteenth century, held simple cremations beneath the mounds. Historic England calls the group an outstanding example of its class. Local lore is less measured: the Devil sprang noisily from mound to mound until Thor, resting on the hill, threw a boulder and frightened him off. The South Downs Way runs past them.
Down below is Treyford itself. There is no pub in the village and no shop. What there is sits a short way off, in Elsted and Hooksway.
The Three Horseshoes in Elsted is a sixteenth-century pub with the food written up on a blackboard, and it changes regularly. The garden looks south over the Downs and has roses and free-range chickens wandering through it. Three or so cask ales are poured by gravity from behind the bar, usually Bowman, Flower Pots and Hogs Back. Dogs are welcome at the table and on a lead in the garden. A recent visitor came away praising the lamb Sunday roast with fresh mint sauce, and a coffee mousse afterwards.
The Elsted Inn, over at Elsted Marsh, started life as the Station Hotel for a stop on the 1864 Petersfield–Midhurst branch line. The station closed long ago; the pub is Victorian, with rooms, and its detached coach house once held Ballard's Brewery. Fish pie and a Sunday roast turn up in what people report eating there.
The Royal Oak at Hooksway is a free house in a sixteenth-century cottage, tucked into the Downs and set up for walkers. David Jeffrey and Sarah Warner have run it since 1990. The walk writer Christopher Somerville called it a "delightful walker-friendly pub" with "roaring fires, resident spectre, good beer and food." The spectre, by local account, is William Shepherd, a sheep rustler shot after taking refuge here around 1680. His circuit from the pub's door climbs through yew, fern and beech to the Devil's Jumps and back down through Didling and Treyford, about six miles.
The ruins of St Mary's church stand here, its nave and chancel thirteenth-century. Three Early English lancets survive in the east wall, with faint traces of brown lozenge painting, and there are consecration crosses cut into the stone, a blocked twelfth-century doorway and a broken altar slab of Sussex marble. It was closed for a grander replacement, St Peter's, a stone church with a 120-foot spire that earned it the name Cathedral of the Downs. The community was too small to keep it up. St Peter's came down in 1951, and the spire, it is said, had to be blown up.
For stocking a kitchen, Cowdray Farm Shop in Midhurst has estate venison, grass-fed lamb and beef and its own Cowdray cheeses; Durleighmarsh, near Petersfield, is a pick-your-own for strawberries, raspberries and pumpkins in season. Petersfield, some six miles off as the crow flies, has the nearest station.
By the lane stands a small St Christopher waypost, put up in 1924 and refurbished a couple of years ago. The lettering beneath it still reads: "Who carried Christ speed thee today, And lift thy heart up all the way."